Cable rub, chain slap,
gravel off the front wheel.
Frame protection film for road, gravel and mountain bikes. On a carbon frame the damage is not one big impact — it is three places that mark on every single ride.
The damage is repetition, not accident
A car gets chipped by events. A frame gets worn by repetition — the same chain hitting the same stay, the same cable moving against the same spot on the head tube, ride after ride.
Chain slap
Every rough descent throws the chain against the drive-side chainstay. It is the mark that appears on almost every mountain bike, and it appears fast.
Cable and contact rub
Housing moves a few millimetres against the head tube on every turn of the bars. Over a season that polishes a line through the clearcoat.
What the front wheel throws
The down tube leading edge and the fork legs catch everything the front tyre picks up. On gravel that is constant, and carbon shows it.
Where a frame actually marks
Three zones account for most of the damage on most bikes. Cover those first and decide about the rest of the frame after.
The three zones that always mark
- Down tube leading edge
- Drive-side chainstay
- Head tube and cable contact points
Fork, top tube and the rest of the frame
- Fork legs
- Top tube and strap zones
- Seat stays
- Crank arm and shoe rub area
Bicycle PPF questions
Which film. Gloss frames get TrackDay Fit as standard; Premium is the upgrade that heals with no heat at all, and it can be chosen on the quote. Matte and satin frames get Ghost either way, so the finish still matches once the film is on. See the matte film →
Will it show on the frame?
On a gloss frame it is clear film and the paint reads as it did before. On a matte or satin frame we use Ghost so the finish stays flat — a gloss film over a matte frame is the one mistake that is obvious from across the room.
Is it safe on carbon?
The film sits on the clearcoat, not on the carbon, and it comes off without lifting it. Frame paint is thin, which is exactly why a sacrificial layer is worth more here than it is on a car.
Do I need the whole frame done?
Usually not. The down tube, the drive-side chainstay and the head tube take most of it. Full-frame coverage is quotable if you want it, but the value is in those three zones.
There is no pre-cut kit for my frame.
Then it is a good thing we do not use them. Every piece is cut by hand to the frame in front of us, so the bikes that kit makers skip — boutique builds, current-season flagships, anything not sold in volume — are the ones we can still cover.
What about carrying it on the car?
Worth asking about together. A rack marks the bike where the arms clamp and marks the car where the frame swings — and both are done in the same building.
How is it priced?
Per bike. Frame shapes vary too much for a fixed price, so send the make, model and whether the frame is gloss or matte.